Trotting (and twitching) a weighted shad under small float? Not exactly purist but I have seen it done...keeping contact with the lure could be a challenge but you never know.
LOL. I'm thinking about the mark we fish up here mostly. Although others too. Once the tide turns starts coming in, it actually pushes harder, coming up that funnel on the left. But with the tide coming in you can't get out on either side to fish across it any more. Like that last day we had there and caught. It was ok til the tide turned, but pretty hopeless once we were left retrieving against it.Nathan Taylor said:oh dear oh dear....wait until the brothers see your thread...lol they will love you.....that is right up there street... :muttley:
Problem ?The main problem is the fact that the rip is very often travelling away from me.
I'd fish around the edges of the surf, the shoulder of the wave.Ben Field said:...just to complicate things...
What if there is a bit of swell running. The current is generally proportionate to the size of the swell at most of these marks, and with it being reasonable shallow, breakers can occasionally cause a problem(?!) - dragging line back in (floating lures with it).
What do you do when the current pushes one way, but there is enough whitewater to mess things up?
IF you have true 'current', the swell (see *** after) might mess up presentation.Ben Field said:What do you do when the current pushes one way, but there is enough whitewater to mess things up?
I think that I have been doing this on one of my marks, but did not know I was doing it until I read this, especially where wind and tidal flow are at opposits and trying to get a good curving sweep but not making contact with under water structures.Keith White said:As you know, Jersey is adorned with current somewhere at some stage of the tide.
So, we learned to use it in a multitude of ways.
I've got to really get this stuff into a workshop but i'll try to explain
one method that could work on your described run.
There are tons of swing, backwind techniques etc but, though they are easy in
practice to show, nightmare to write down.
Lets look at the....
Dive, Dig and Rise.
Current running away from you or at a tight too angle.
First, choose a plug that will dive DEEPER than the actual depth.
Choose a deeper diving 10-12 cm long billed bait, maybe a Live X or
some type of crankbait styled bait with a medium dive bill. You want
a coffin nosed bill ideally so the deflection off the bottom is pronounced
and erratic. Sharpen the underside front of said bill for faster diving, deeper
The plug must be buoyant.
Cast, but cast high, VERY high pitch but not high as in (loads of line off).
Cast down the run, say 15 meters but, up at a high angle so 30 meters of line
might be off the reel. Aim: Make a splash to wake up a fish but maintain line control.
Do nothing but watch for a take. Still, do nothing. The plug will run out of line.
Depending upon the current, the plug will either dive down and smack the bottom
or, you'll need to sweep it down. It's best to really sweep it down. Right behind you
sweep the rod horizontally to the water.
BUMP ! plug hits the deck hard.
bring the rod around your body with the braid JUST slack.
This allows the plug to rise slowly but still travel backwards in current.
The actual amount of current determines how far the sweep, how fast the rise etc.
Let the plug surface and WAIT. Not long though, a few seconds.
Then, bail off. Sweep the rod back behind again to release X amount of slack.
Bail on. follow the plug backwards in loose contact.
Sweep hard down....
Bump and repeat the above from (A)
Hope this helps, it does work. Just keep choosing slightly differing lines and keep trying.
I think that is the key to drawing fish in, yes.Ben Edwards said:is it essential for the plug to 'smack' the bottom?