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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so here goes, I got some braid for my birthday (Roves Airstrike 15lb), bought a Penn Captiva cv2 4000, got the line loaded at Mr Fish who put on backing and all that very good service.
I am using this setup on a Berkeley Lightning Road 9' 15-40g casting and Xslayer original on a 7g head.

First trip out it was all right got all the extra feel but towards the end of the session got a massive knot as I cast it hooked on of the eyes and I had a ball of mess. Ended up cutting the knot out and tying with a blood knot.

Second trip dark first cast wind knot so gave up and carried on fishing another method.

Third trip first cast wind knot, untangled cast wind knot and more of the same. Now needless to say this is making fishing really suck.
More time spent untangling knots than fishing. So I switched real to one with 15lb mono an started lauching the lures into the sea and almost started smiling again.

So firstly is the a special technique required to cast braid? If yes what is it ?
Secondly I have no more money for new gear so if there is a fault in this setup I am just going to buy some more mono.
Thirdly and this may be a contributing factor, if you cannot clear a knot can you just cut the line and tie it together?
I have now got about 4 knots in my braid using a blood knot. I realise I might have wrecked the braid doing this but I just could not face sitting for hours undoing knots.

If braid is going to be this much of a hassle I am going to accept missed bites and start enjoying myself again

Thanks in advance
Jeremy
 

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Jeremy

When you cast out - what do you do?
Start winding stright back in?

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Jeremy

When you cast out - what do you do?
Start winding stright back in?

Nick
I cast let the lure hit the water wait a few moments the start to retrieve.

But I can hear the knot hit the guides on the way out before the lure is even half way to the water ?

If the cast is quiet no knot a gentle clunk as I cast and sure enough knot on the retrieve
 

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Jeremy, don't give up on the braid. I too became more than a little frustrated when changing from mono to braid three years back. You will undoubtedly get expert advise on mass in the next few days from forum members. My advise would be to attach a cheap lure and get out in full daylight and practice. Get out with a fellow braid users and watch them if you can. The wind can play havock with braid and loops can easily end up as knots. One thing for sure, when you hook into a running fish on braid, you will never want to fish with mono again.

Keep at it. It's worth it.
 

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Ok thats now

Because you had it spooled by Mr Fish I assume it was wound on under tension
When you retrieve you need to ensure that the tension is kept on
Especially when your braid is new - as it gets older it gets more "forgiving"

Because you've got a full spool, I'd recommend you pull off any sections you've knotted and re tie your leader
(the amount you pull off shouldn't make much difference to distance or performance)
then - next time you're fishing

cast ...
when the lure hits the water ... (recommend using a floating lure for the first hours or so)
pull down on the line with the bail arm OPEN - just enough to pull 10-12 inches off against the drag ...
this "sets" your braid on the spool
... then close your bail arm and retrieve under moderate pressure

after an hour or so, this "conditions" your line
and you should be able to use it as you did like mono - but with all the advantages of braid
even including bouncing SPs on light jigs with no line pressure

BUT at least once a session you should cast out and wind straight back in under moderate pressure again
for the sake of a "normal" session - you could do it at the every end of your session
then next time you start all you have to do is go for it!

Its not scientific but its what the Australian tournament and American tournament fishers do in these situations
Braid on spinning reels is a very different beast to mono but well worth it if you use this trick to get you over the first bump
its a minor inconvenience but well worth the "hassle"

the reason you are getting "wind knots" is because your line isn't being put on the spool wth enough pressure
(or is overspooled - but given Mr Fish spooled your reel i don't think thats the issue)

"but towards the end of the session got a massive knot as I cast it hooked on of the eyes and I had a ball of mess"

when your line is new and still a little "stiff" it will fly off as IT wants to not - how YOU want it too
which often means it drags out a lower layer of line
hence the tangles AKA wind knot



I'm betting you had 3 or 4 casts which were fine - then a few problems quickly followed?

any questions PM me or reply here
let us know how you get on

Nick
 
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The trouble with fishing lightweight lures (xslayer) is keeping the tension on the braid during the retrieve. If the braid is wound back onto the reel with no tension, it has a much higher chance of a wind knot.
When the lure hits the water stop the line coming of the spool with your finger, close the bail arm check for loop sticking up around the spool lip. Then move the rod tip to create just alittle tension to the lure then retrieve it.
Sounds like a pain in the arse, but it soon becomes second nature. I know those knots can be a pain, but pick them out if at all possible. As someone said take a plug out during the day, and get used to the braid. It is worth sticking with - honest
 

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Jeremy,
I just run a very cheap Maver reel and it's exactly as Dave has just mentioned 95% of the wind knots I get are because of this first loop of line not sitting on the reel but looping over the top edge of the spool. Nick has given you the rest. If you have a technique or reel that doesn't help prevent the loop on first retrieve do as Dave suggests put it on manually. I do it and as Dave says it soon becomes second nature...Haven't had a wind knot for ages......Now there's tempting fate....;-);-)
 

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When I cast out as the lure is coming to the end of its flight I 'feather' the line with my hand. This straightens it out. I then operate the bail arm manually and then automatically gently 'pull' the line from the spool before I start winding. This makes sure the line remaining on the spool is correctly lying and there are no loops caused by slack line. You will find that after you have done this a bit you will do it automatically.

I have used braid now for about 10 years and never had any problems. I use Berkeley Fireline in 8lb, 10lb ,14lb and 20lb strengths depending upon what type of luring I am doing. I think Fireline is a little more stiffer than some but even so if you stick to the procedure I have outlined above I am quite sure you will never have another problem with braid. Its brilliant stuff.

David
 

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When I cast out as the lure is coming to the end of its flight I 'feather' the line with my hand. This straightens it out. I then operate the bail arm manually and then automatically gently 'pull' the line from the spool before I start winding. This makes sure the line remaining on the spool is correctly lying and there are no loops caused by slack line. You will find that after you have done this a bit you will do it automatically.

David
Exactly.
That is the best way.
 

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Great advice so far from everyone, you won't go wrong following it. The only other time I had experienced the dreaded wind knot was when fishing surface plugs with a lot of jerks and twitches. The objective is to try and avoid taking line onto the reel with no tension, which is easily done once you get the hang of it. If I am doing a lot of light SP fishing now, I will try to remember to clip on a toby or a wedge and blast it out, before retrieving straight in under tension.

I feel your pain though with the wind knots, nothing worse than hearing that 'clunk' when there are feeding fish in front of you!
 

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Keep with it Jeremy, that rovex is nice braid. I've got 20lb on 1 reel, and 10lb on a little rovex reel. I've been really impressed with it, just as good as powerpro IMHO. When I have had wind knots in the past, I've found I haven't lost as much line as I first thought. Best to cut the line below the knot, and retie a leader.

Gary
 

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Jeremy dont give up on it, bring the reel in and let me load it. Leave any of the old line on it so I can see how it looked when its on there. I was away when the reel was loaded and usually insist on putting line on reels myself as I know how important it is to get right. I wont give an angler his reel unless I would use it like its loaded myself. I will give you a new spool of line. I dont want to throw the cat amoungst the pigeons too much, but in my opinion the Penn Captiva cv2 4000's that I sold a few years ago had aweful line lay and were a bit prone for grief from braid....maybe the newer models are better as I havnt sold one for about 4 years.

The advice you have been given so far is outstanding, I have actually picked up a couple of points I didnt know, but to remind you of sme of the points I would have made on it;

Close the bail arm manually.
Pull a couple of feet of line back out once the bail is closed.
Hold the rod up and reel in under some tention til you feel the weight of the lure.
A loose loop over the front of the spool is usually the begining of a diaster, by closing the bail arm manually and pulling a couple of feet off the spool this should never happen.
Look at your line more than you do, just check for any slackness.
This all seems hassle to begin with but becomes second nature very quickly and you dont even realise youre doing it after a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi All

I am very encouraged that this does seem like a technique error so there should be a solution.
I will give this tips a try and let you know how I get on.

Thanks everyone
 

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Discussion Starter #14
An update on the braid situation, I have been real busy and **** at Mr Fish offered to take a look at the mess I had made, (That people is customer care)

Anyway **** retensioned the line onto the real and I went out yesterday for a short session and did everything I have be told and no wind knots, it was not a mega long session but none the less it was 100% better than the previous session I tried with the braid. I actually enjoyed it even though there were no fish coming, though none were really expected it was really just a test session.

I will keep you posted
 

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A good result for you nonetheless.

Don't be put off by the need to pick up a few habits with braid as it's so worth it in many situations.
Service at ***** is good generally but watch the dog LOL..
 

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**** i think you hit the nail on the head Its the reel that is at fault Line lay is awful Had the same problem with braid Even mono tends to go on funny almost cone shaped
 

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Discussion Starter #17
**** i think you hit the nail on the head Its the reel that is at fault Line lay is awful Had the same problem with braid Even mono tends to go on funny almost cone shaped
Looks to me like it is a lesson in impulse buys. Went out on Friday and decided that if it knotted I was going to just cut reattach leader and carry on fishing.
After a 5 hour session I had thrown away half a spool of braid.

I have now removed the braid and gone to 10lb mono took it out last night and it was fine. But time will tell I was using a plug which obvioulsy gives more resistance.

I have put what was left of the braid onto my ryobi GR1 and will see if it works on that.

To be honest I fish for fun and the braid on that reel just is no fun.

Will definitely get some advice before I next buy a new reel.
 
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