The 30lb braid should be fine, it works when attaching a lure to the reel normally... Just how big a fish do you expect to catch with them?
Looking good btw.
Looking good btw.
Diy Assist Hooks
15
Items Required
Cost per completed assist hook - £1.03
1st take your Dyneema cord,lure and hook and measure how much cord you will require (dont cut it too short!)
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2nd Remove the core from the Dyneema cord (makes it thinner and easyer to work with).Melt the ends with a lighter to prevent fraying.
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3rd Thread on your Rig ring.
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4th Thread on your hook.
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5th Tie a overhand knot onto the hook shaft but dont over tighten because it needs to be slack so you can adjust length of assist.
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6th Adjust length,tighten knot and apply superglue to knot for added strength.Trim the ends of the cord and tidy with lighter.
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7th Cut heatshrink to desired length.
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8th If using thin shanked hooks you may find the heatshrink doesnt shrink around the hook snug because the knot is relatively larger in diameter so you can heatshrink the hook shank with a smaller piece of heatshrink to reduce the gap.
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9th Position and heatshrink the knot and the job is complete.
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Fitted to lure.
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This is only my second attempt at this so im sure after a few goes it will look abit neater.
*******UPDATE********
If you find your heatshrink doesnt quiet fit over the knot then you can stretch it using pin nose pliers or tweezers (dont over do it and risk splitting the heatshrink).
![]()
- Stretched vs Unstretched.
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- Stretched over knot.
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- Heat applied for finish.
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(3.2mm heatshrink stretched over roughly the same size knot)
Alternative Materials -
- Kevlar/ Dacron cord
- Kite String
- Leadcore
- Catfish Pro Catlink
- Riverge Rig Rings
- Korda Wide Gape X hooks
- Super Glue
- Hair Dryer
- Lighter
- Heat Shrink (in various sizes)
- Hooks (Decoy)
- Rig Rings (Drennan)
- Split rings (Flashmer)
- Dyneema Cord
Cost per completed assist hook - £1.03
1st take your Dyneema cord,lure and hook and measure how much cord you will require (dont cut it too short!)
2nd Remove the core from the Dyneema cord (makes it thinner and easyer to work with).Melt the ends with a lighter to prevent fraying.
3rd Thread on your Rig ring.
4th Thread on your hook.
5th Tie a overhand knot onto the hook shaft but dont over tighten because it needs to be slack so you can adjust length of assist.
6th Adjust length,tighten knot and apply superglue to knot for added strength.Trim the ends of the cord and tidy with lighter.
7th Cut heatshrink to desired length.
8th If using thin shanked hooks you may find the heatshrink doesnt shrink around the hook snug because the knot is relatively larger in diameter so you can heatshrink the hook shank with a smaller piece of heatshrink to reduce the gap.
9th Position and heatshrink the knot and the job is complete.
Fitted to lure.
This is only my second attempt at this so im sure after a few goes it will look abit neater.
*******UPDATE********
If you find your heatshrink doesnt quiet fit over the knot then you can stretch it using pin nose pliers or tweezers (dont over do it and risk splitting the heatshrink).
- Stretched vs Unstretched.
- Stretched over knot.
- Heat applied for finish.
(3.2mm heatshrink stretched over roughly the same size knot)
Alternative Materials -
- Kevlar/ Dacron cord
- Kite String
- Leadcore
- Catfish Pro Catlink
- Riverge Rig Rings
- Korda Wide Gape X hooks
101 - 118 of 118 Posts
9
Did the following for folk on the other forum;
I was making up a few assists tonight so as requested I have taken some photo's and shall try and provide a quick guide to two methods.
There are lots of other methods and when I can afford some fly tying kit I shall post some more providing someone does not beat me to it.
You'll need some kit
Rigging material: Braid, Dacron, Jigging braid etc
Solid rings and split rings
Hooks (I tend to use Sakuma Chinu hooks, they go down to size 10 too)
Shrink tube
Super Glue
Scissors or craft knife
Lighter
Method 1
This is one of the methods I use for lrf sized hooks as it is nice and simple. I am using heavier stuff here but you'll get the idea.
Take your length braid or dacron and fold it in half;
Then tie simple over hand knot;
Slide your hook into the knot with the eye toward the top of the loop;
Tighten down;
Pass the loop through the back of the hooks eye;
Trim off your tag ends, dab some super glue on the knot, then slide a piece of shrink tube over the knot and gently heat with a flame;
Attach a solid ring with a larks foot knot;
I was making up a few assists tonight so as requested I have taken some photo's and shall try and provide a quick guide to two methods.
There are lots of other methods and when I can afford some fly tying kit I shall post some more providing someone does not beat me to it.
You'll need some kit
Rigging material: Braid, Dacron, Jigging braid etc
Solid rings and split rings
Hooks (I tend to use Sakuma Chinu hooks, they go down to size 10 too)
Shrink tube
Super Glue
Scissors or craft knife
Lighter
Method 1
This is one of the methods I use for lrf sized hooks as it is nice and simple. I am using heavier stuff here but you'll get the idea.
Take your length braid or dacron and fold it in half;
Then tie simple over hand knot;
Slide your hook into the knot with the eye toward the top of the loop;
Tighten down;
Pass the loop through the back of the hooks eye;
Trim off your tag ends, dab some super glue on the knot, then slide a piece of shrink tube over the knot and gently heat with a flame;
Attach a solid ring with a larks foot knot;
14
Method 2
You won't be able to use this method with lrf assists, but for HRF its fine. Its strange to call this a HRF method, as I was flinging jigs way before I even heard the term.
Take a length of hollow core jigging braid and insert a splicing needle half way up;
Stupidly I have missed a photo out here, I shall explain as best as I can.
Make a small loop in the braid from above the hook and insert the bottom of the loop into the hook, only the side that doesn't have the needle in.
Then pull the needle and other half of the braid back through the hollow core. You should end up with this;
At this point you can add a solid ring, though you can do it later;
At the other end, slide the hook on and make a loop as shown;
Pass the tag end, through the loop as shown;
Tighten down when you have sussed where on your jig you'd like the hook to hang. I usually go for held to three quarters of the way down my jigs.
You have created a half hitch, do two more of these;
Put a dab of super glue on the knot.
At this pint you can add some flash (tinsel) if you wish, just super glue it on.
Then add a piece of shrink tube;
Gently heat with a flame;
Attach your solid ring to a split ring and then to the jig;
Your done!
I like to make up assist of varying lengths and I store them in a hook wallet. My jigs are then separate in a jig roll or case. This way If i want to change hook size, length or whatever, I can do it on the fly.
Go fishing and have fun
You won't be able to use this method with lrf assists, but for HRF its fine. Its strange to call this a HRF method, as I was flinging jigs way before I even heard the term.
Take a length of hollow core jigging braid and insert a splicing needle half way up;
Stupidly I have missed a photo out here, I shall explain as best as I can.
Make a small loop in the braid from above the hook and insert the bottom of the loop into the hook, only the side that doesn't have the needle in.
Then pull the needle and other half of the braid back through the hollow core. You should end up with this;
At this point you can add a solid ring, though you can do it later;
At the other end, slide the hook on and make a loop as shown;
Pass the tag end, through the loop as shown;
Tighten down when you have sussed where on your jig you'd like the hook to hang. I usually go for held to three quarters of the way down my jigs.
You have created a half hitch, do two more of these;
Put a dab of super glue on the knot.
At this pint you can add some flash (tinsel) if you wish, just super glue it on.
Then add a piece of shrink tube;
Gently heat with a flame;
Attach your solid ring to a split ring and then to the jig;
Your done!
I like to make up assist of varying lengths and I store them in a hook wallet. My jigs are then separate in a jig roll or case. This way If i want to change hook size, length or whatever, I can do it on the fly.
Go fishing and have fun
Hi Lee, I was steered towards ceramic tube bobbins to avoid the chance of threads getting cut by the tube, and there are some reasonably priced ones out there.
As ever more money can get you a better product
a £4 - £8 ceramic bobbin will serve you as well as a £14 - £18 ceramic bobbin, for occasional/hobby fly tying.
but now that I've started tying (not often enough to get to grips with maintaining a smooth steady pull on the thread yet!) I'd go for the Ritebobbin or similar ceramic tube bobbin with a built in drag system.
Avoiding the irritation generated by snapping the threads is worth the extra money IMHO.....
If you know any fly tyers local to you that could let you have a go at tying, you would quickly see what you 'need' and what is nice to use.
If you're going to be using high breaking strain thread/lines then a cheap'n cheerful ceramic tube bobbin will work just fine
It's only taken me about two years to get round to finally making some but I'm pleased with how they've turned out...Fantastic thread. Been thinking about messing about with assist hooks on some of my ultra light metals and some of the info on here is great.
Materials used.
6/0 thread.
50lb Power Pro.
#4 Owner Pin Hook.
Micro Crystal Flash.
3mm rig ring.
Superglue.
A lot easier than I thought it would be and even better I only paid £20 for a budget fly tying vice and tools. :-D
101 - 118 of 118 Posts
