[Sam Roche]

Hi all, Have any of you guy's been useing Fluorocarbon strat through for your LRF fishing.

 

[Nick Phillips]

Not 100% FC Sam but I have used the HyBrid lines from YoZuri and I liked them.

 

[Dave Irving]

Sam,
Not yet, but the mention of FC mainlines is becoming more and more common on the japanese websites mainly in the 3-5lb test bracket. will see if I can dig up more information on exactly why.

 

[Sam Roche]

Thanks Nick, What was the bite detection like using HyBrid line for the smaller fish and what BS did you use.

 

[Sam Roche]

Yes Dave, It was on some of the LRF vids from Japan that i noticed some of the guys using FC or it conld have been mono.

 

[Dave Irving]

Right a very quick search turned up the following:

Fish hook up ● (hanging needles) make it easier to absorb the explosive power of the moment, we have made use fluorocarbon Itohara ductility.
And ●, structures can be hard to attack boldly excellent "wear resistance" and the lure to produce high operability "supple" is a 持Chi合Waseta line.
And ●, at very low water absorption, high strength to maintain long-term water use.
Wed camouflage line very close to the refractive index ●.

Translations are often a bit of a pain, but it seems that FC is used when fishing with jigs/plugs as it streches and reduces the impact as a fish hits the lure (Aji inparticluar have very delicate mouth, that tear easily), and for it's greater abrahesion resistance than braid (especially the very thin LRF braids) when fishing close to structure, and finally it's low visability is concidered an advantage.
Sam,
Will try and get you some more detailed info shortly, as I have emailed a question to a couple of guys I chat to over there.

 

[Sam Roche]

Good man Dave looking forward to that info.

 

[Ben Field]

I think thats pretty much spot on Dave. Its the same for the Ozzie bream guys. Fluoro for:

1. Stretch to absorb a hard strike.
2. Abrasion resistance.
3. Super clear water.

On a sloooow, straight retrieve I can't see there being a negative to using fluoro. Apart from a bit of casting distance being lost.

 

[Mick Ward]

I was asking a similar question recently, just wondered what lines people were using. I still dont know..... http://www.thelureforum.com/showthread.php?t=5635

 

[Ben Field]

I've been using some P-Line ****, but its not fine enough for my liking in 4lb. Needs something a bit more modern. Stepping down as far as 2lb though would be a realistic option.

 

[Mick Ward]

Thank you Ben, I will buy and try a few different types myself too, see what I come up with, it all takes time and fishing but I want to know now!! ;-)

 

[Dave Irving]

****,
The most popular Fluro's for LRF in Japan seem to be:
Seaguar R18 in 2-5lb,
Varivas Light Game in 2-5lb
And Sunline Small Game 1-3lb

These three lines get constant good reviews, hope this is of some help.

 

[Mick Ward]

Varivas it is then Dave, I will order some on monday cheers

 

[Nick Phillips]

Thanks Nick, What was the bite detection like using HyBrid line for the smaller fish and what BS did you use.

This was about 5 years ago and I had several breaking strains around the 8-10lbs range.
I would have to say that the bite detection was not that good in fact about the same as mono.
This line though was super to cast with but not a 'full' FC line and I think things have moved on since then............

 

[Sam Roche]

Thanks to all for your replys

 

[Carl B]

sam, fluro straight thru is useful for lrf metals when using the slow retreive, i use seagur, thinks its the salmon not sure

 

[Mike Sullivan]

I have only ever fished fluro straight through for mullet in the southwest, though the bite detection wasnt brilliant on small fish imho, though see what happens i guess. I did try the yo zuri hybrid lines in 6lb no isssue when casting with 1/4oz + as straightened the line. When freelining if retained it's memory though.
The riverge fluros i used as tippet maerials for fly fishing was great with ni on zero memory though.

 

[Ben Field]

I think the main thing with fluoro is that you have to fish it with a moving bait. Either slow retrieve (it's stretch will help with the 'suck in' process that was mentioned rceently with solid tips), or with anything up to a fast retrieve - where again it's stretch is the bonus. Fishing 3, 4, 5lb braid there's a chance that a decent fish ramming in to your bait will provide enough of a shock to break you. Fluoro should provide a bit of cushioning. Braid's weak point is it's shock resistance - which has been mentioned a few times before. Its probably unlikely at this point that many of us are regularly hitting fish powerful enough to cause many problems, but if you start finding big pollack, bass or even bream (in my dreams!) then fish (and lure) loss may become a reality - this is on the faster retrieves by the way - won't be too many problems unless you and the fish are pulling quickly in two different directions - which is unlikely to happen at slow speed.

If you're bottom bouncing a lightly weighted soft bait then it's likely that fluoro will be absolutely pants. Time for the braid as soon as it becomes essential to feel what you're doing (feeling for bottom, shakeyhead, on the drop even).

If you have a choice of just one then I'd go for the braid every time.

 

[Mike Sullivan]

I think that the main upside here is that many reels come with a spare spool as standard mate, allowing the use of braid and fluro and changing at will. Especially with the low cost of fluro these days compared to what it was.

 

[Nick Phillips]

I think its also worth mentioning that there are three different types of FC line,as in the one that is a hibrid,the one designed as a 'main' line and the 100% stuff that is used for hook lengths etc.
I have used a few and for me the Seaguar is my choice and its small in diameter as well compaired to others.
They 'invented' it as well (parent company).