Guide for Stripping the Top Coat & Paint from old Lures | Lure Anglers Forum - Lure Fishing Forum UK (Bass, wrasse..)
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Guide for Stripping the Top Coat & Paint from old Lures

Discussion in 'DIY & Home Made Lures' started by {name}, Mar 6, 2015.

  1. Bass

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    This guide will help give your old lures a new look, leaving you with an un damaged surface, ready for airbrushing or re foiling
    it involves hardly any work at all, BUT it does require patience



    NB if your lure has any hairline cracks, these will become apparent but, you can fix these later

    Results WILL differ...

    Depending on the manufacturer, you can easily strip the clear coat & paint right down to the bare plastic without sanding down the finishing detail or compromising the integrity of the lure
    different lures yield different results and soak times, this info is given in good faith and I haven't tested every lure on the market so I make no guarantees

    this process simply won't work for every paint job. I would love to be able to say this works for ALL lures but , I know that it doesn't work on the 500g Patchinko, I'd be interested to know if this was true of all Xorus paint jobs

    anyway....



    you will need

    Kitchen Towel
    cheap micro-fibre cloth
    Examination gloves

    500ml of IPA ( 99.9% isopropyl alcohol) £5.50
    this is the key ingredient for hospital hand sanitisers and readily available in its pure form on ebay or chemical suppliers

    *not be confused with rubbing alcohol...or a pint of Ale (please don't drink this suff)

    [​IMG]



    CAUTION

    IPA is HIGHLY flammable
    exercise common sense when working with this

    its not the nastiest stuff in the world,but it can dry out your skin & cause iritation to sensitive skin , you can prevent this simply by using examination gloves or a barrier such as vaseline & moisturise after contact

    (other uses for IPA:geek:
    removes permanent marker
    cleans CDs and DVD's when cut with water
    and of course can be used as a sanitiser and solvent
    however.. once this is contaminated with resin and paint, I don't recommend using it for anything else)



    long nose tweezers/pliers/forceps/dental scraper can be handy to retrieve the lure from the bottle


    [​IMG]


    one more thing... if you need to do repair work, you can use superglue or your favourite clear 2 part resin


    Step 1

    for the sake of this tutorial, I have decanted 500ml into a drinking bottle (the opening is big enough to fit the lure into)
    you don't have to do this, the normal 500ml bottle has a safety lid but not quite translucent enough for observation
    make sure the lid is tight and secure



    Remove hooks
    might be an idea to remove the eyes too if you want to keep them

    [​IMG]

    Step 2

    Dump the lure into the bottle & leave for about 48hrs


    [​IMG]



    24hrs



    after 24 hours you should notice the top coat is has started to bubble and float away from the lure taking the paint job with it
    depending on how effective this has been so far & if you're impatient, you can remove the lure & start the cleaning process now, but I'm going to let time do the work for me

    if you have damaged your lure on the rocks, hairline crack will become apparent

    as this one was badly damaged I decided extend my research, with some different brands

    interestingly...top waters sink a little bit



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    and here you can see how effective this process can be after 24 hrs

    [​IMG]


    48hrs

    [​IMG]


    Step 3

    Cleaning


    you can remove the lure and peel off what comes away easily

    [​IMG]


    clean off the rest with kitchen towel dabbed in IPA

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    if you want to remove the primer, final cleaning can be done with a microfibre cloth dabbed in IPA


    hopefully, you should end up with something like this:shock:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    notes..

    any damaged lures that filled with IPA, i just take outside and flick the liquid out (sounds dirty)


    when this process doesn't work, personally for me, I like to retain the sculpted detail as much as possible I like to use either namptha based white spirit or methylated spirits
    (a Denatured alcohol usually an acetone mix) and med/fine wire wool & carefully buff

    with meths, you must use latex gloves as the acetone in the mix will eat into vinyl and nitrile
    don't soak the lure for as long as described above or it will eat the lure before the fish do
    have a fan in front of you & pointing away from you (creating an extraction)


    for repairs... I'll cover this in the next tutorial

    cheers
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2015
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  2. Sea Trout 2016 Bass Challenge Winner

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    Top stuff Stefan. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Looking forward to the next instalment .
     
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  3. Bass

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    Thanks kevin!
     
  4. Striper

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    Brilliant mate!
     
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  5. Bass

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    Cheers Daniel!
     
  6. Chub

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    Great guide Stefan
     
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  7. Striper

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    go figure !
    interesting and comprehensive guide,thanks.....................

    as its something that i only do very occasionally i will stick a mixture of grades of sandpaper/stanley knife blade, takes about 20 minutes to get down to bare plastic. Can see yours being much better if doing alot of lures especially at the same time
     
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  8. Pollock

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    Very informative Stefan, thanks for taking the time to post this.

    Who knew that there was an IPA that you couldn't drink?
     
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  9. Bass

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    Thanks rob

    cheers trevor, I hear what you're saying, I have used wet and dry in the past but very unhappy with the results, which is why i started experimenting for a better way, i work with IPA all the time and its so easy to get hold of, so its a no brainer for me.

    more importantly, I like to use the detail in my paint schemes so it makes sense for me, to keep as much of the detail as possible
     
  10. Bass

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    as you know Andy your question last week spurred me to make this post as its not easy to explain, if you want, you could send me one of your lures, so i can give it a go?
     
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  11. Wrasse

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    Great post Stefan. Good to know a different way of doing things....If the IPA gets inside the lure wont it just evaporate?
     
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  12. Bass

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    Cheers Robert,
    erm…IPA does evaporate very quickly, but it needs air to evaporate, so I don't know how long that would take, it also depends how big the crack is, how much got in there and why, if there's loads in there, then it should come out as quick as it went in

    I have just found it can be a one way street as the air inside the dc9 must have been warmer when it went in
    as the air cooled it drew in liquid under pressure
    so I am considering sticking a hot needle in the base which will very easy to patch with devcon afterwards
     
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  13. Pollock

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    Is there any chance that this thread could become a sticky?

    It'll save having to look for it in the future.
     
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  14. Bass

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    Thanks Andy, I'l send a message to admin
     
  15. Sandeel

    thanks - appreciated
     
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  16. Striper

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    Thanks for posting, Stefan. When's the next bit?:smiley-signs101:
     
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  17. Bass

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    Cheers Paul
    Im hoping I have time tomorrow but I'm still busy experimenting with glues for foiling at the moment
     

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