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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just a few questions today lads :rollineyes: i headed out this morning with my first type of weed-less hooks with weights on...i tried gulp sandeels, xlayers, hart worms, and a few others i blanked but i think it was more to do with the conditions than anything else :( so my questions are :

1 From the photo is the hook in the right position just out of the Sp:

HArt.jpg

2 Also after a few casts the hook would go back into the sp is there anyway to stop this or did i maybe have the hook stretching the sp too much?

Look forward to the replies :)
 

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I tend to get the hook in position through the front of the lure, then line up along the side where I expect the point to come out through the middle of the lure, per your picture so that the point of the hook lies along the top of the lure rather than just emerging like in your pic. You should not stretch the lure at all when hooking it but you will need to squeeze it up to get the hook through in the right place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok thanks andy so have the hook point out, but is there a way to stop the hook going back into the SP if you get me?
 

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It won't pull back through the SP if you rig it right. You can also nick the point of the hook into the back of the SP for a little more security but not too much else it won't hook up on fish as well.
 

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Andy has that advice spot on.
The 2 ways to help stop a hook pulling back through are both called 'Skinning'.

You do stretch the lure forward from the point (after proper rigging) and impale the hook point very lightly under, the skin, like a splinter.

The 2 best ways of skinning are...

Skin On Top (described above) and Skin On Side ( I prefer this one if I'm missing fish but, it eats through lures as you rig the whole lure asymmetrically on the hook) Sounds complex but isn't.

Just do an Internet search for Texas Skin On Side.
 

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I've got some Berkley weighted hooks (normal straight shank with a 'cranked' eye at the top, no coil thing at the top of the shank).

I have in error (realised this after reading some other posts) threaded the shank of the hook through the body of my SP's. Why shouldn't you do this??

When you have the weighted part of the hook on the outside, how do you 'fix' the SP to the top of the hook. The eye of my Berkley hooks are cranked over........should I feed the point of the hook & shank through the 'mouth' of the SP & then locate the hook as shown in Kevin's post above??
 

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You could of course use belly weights on standard SP hooks. You thread the top part of lure on, put the rubber bands on over the hook point and slide down over the bend, then go back through the SP with the point as normal (the advice Andy gives about measuring where the point should go through will prevent the point slipping back in, like in your picture). Then you can fix the lead in place afterwards. This also gives you the option of changing weights to suit the conditions/current without having to take it all off.
 

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I'm using solder "wire" for a belly weight. Can wrap as much or as little as you like and can remove or add easily. Also very very cheap from B&Q.
 

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Andy has that advice spot on.
The 2 ways to help stop a hook pulling back through are both called 'Skinning'.

You do stretch the lure forward from the point (after proper rigging) and impale the hook point very lightly under, the skin, like a splinter.

The 2 best ways of skinning are...

Skin On Top (described above) and Skin On Side ( I prefer this one if I'm missing fish but, it eats through lures as you rig the whole lure asymmetrically on the hook) Sounds complex but isn't.

Just do an Internet search for Texas Skin On Side.

Keith White;62574I use a cocktail stick as seen here.... look about half way down for pegged senko's. [URL="http://www.jerseybassguides.com/bass...ction-profiles" said:
http://www.jerseybassguides.com/bass...ction-profiles[/URL]

Nothing to add to that except if you are missing bites try a shorter lure! Sounds obvious but many anglers persevere and muck around with their hook set up when all the fish are looking for is a smaller mouthful.
 

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Right......as part of my first foray into the world of SP's, after digesting what everyone has said above I made an attempt at re rigging my Sidewinder Shimmer eels. I was advised by the guy in the shop that I bought them from to use them with 'Berkley Powerjig 1.8g 1/0' hooks. The first 2 pictures show how I first rigged my eels (hope the attaching pictures works!)

SP 001.jpg

SP 002.jpg

After reading what everyone said above I re rigged the eels & came up with....

SP 003.jpg

SP 004.jpg

SP 005.jpg

P.S. the bright yellow line is only for demo purposes so that you can see it in the photos. I'd normally use a 15lb flouro for my 'trace' - does this sound OK?

In the above photos you'll see the hooks that I'm using. Does what I've done in photos 3-5 look about right? Attempted the 'Texas Skin on Top' method of hiding the point of the hook in the back of the eel (looking at the photos I think that the point of the hook needs to be hidden a bit more so it looks more 'splinter' like) & also tried to make sure that the eel sits on the hook as straight as possible without being stretched or hunched up. Any comments will be gratefully received:)
 

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those weighted hooks are more like tube skirt jigs.
Thanks Keith. Right........I've just found out what they are. From one site I looked at it looks as if the way I had them rigged first time around was right for the hooks, just wrong thing to use them in?

Next question - what hooks should I get for use with these eels? Does it look like I've got the right idea with how to rig the eels (once I've got the right hooks)?

Cheers

Toby
 

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To rig those Eels I'd be using a hook, a cone weight and a stopper.

You can rig with offset (what people wrongly call weedless hooks) or straight shanked (recommended).
Small cone weights 5 and 7g (cheap as chips)
Texas stopper but...(float stops work just as good and are half the cost)

Glass beads.

Tie on a leader.
Affix a stopper up the line.
slide on the cone weight.
slide on the bead.
tie on the hook.
Rig the Eel.
Use a cocktail stick to peg the hook eye in the lure.

Fish the rig with the stopper about 6" away from the cone weight unless you are punching the lure through weed when, you tighten the cone weight against the lure.

Go fishing.

Check out the 2nd photo down, bottom lure for a similar rig. http://www.plus-fishing.com/uk/staff-blog/Iestyn-jones/?p=159

And another variation I use with a MegaBass Bumpee Hog...



And another....



Should give you some ideas. This time the hook is straight shanked.

Mount the worm up......



All I do extra now is peg the worm/lure with cocktail stick.

Hope this helps...
 

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Thanks a lot for that Keith. I'll digest that all later. With the straight shanked hook should I rig it in a similar fashion to that shown on Iestyn's blog 'Unpegged Texas Rig' (shows offset hooks) where the shank of the hook is outside the eel body, or with the shank fully inside the body of the eel (similar to my photos 1 & 2 above) & with the eye of the hook at the mouth of the eel?
 
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