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Discussion Starter #1
This is aimed at the CI guys primarily as they seem (!) to be ahead of the rest of us.

Now that people have used HRF tackle a bit more primarily for wrasse, what tackle have people ended up using? I am interested in specific rods/reels/lines and lures but more realistically trying to work out the consensus on how heavy we need to fish to present the bait properly and just as importantly get them out after they have been hooked. I have the Daiwa HRF dvd so know what they use, so what is working over here? Hopefully a Portland trip soon so making sure I have what I need.
 

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Guys are using, for HRF specifically...

Sakura Stingray, Mazzera
Tenyru Injection, SuperMix, Bar etc
Savage Bushwacker 7 and 8
Daiwa Infeet 7ft HRF
MegaBass Silver Shadow

Etc....

Ranging from 5/7g thru 45g mostly between high 6ft to low 8ft in length.

Reels 3000 sized and up.

Braids 15lb and up with longer than usual leaders (becoming more accepted). FC leaders in 15lb +

Not many guys are fishing clips. I use a uni knot but pulled tight to within a 5mm loop near the jig eye tie.

Head weights of 5g plus mostly, 7 and 10g more common right now.

Most rods with compound tapers and low end power are fine for HRF as long as you can 'feel' the jig.
If you can't, start again. This is absolutely KEY and the first and best step to learning fishing jigs. Without it, you are limiting yourself to swimming jigs which is useful but not the best way to target Wrasse, Bass or anything really unless it's an open midwater target.

You need a rod that can 'STRIKE' the jig off the bottom to be setup to 're hit' the bottom in a steep dive. This helps you hop jigs over hard structure too and set larger hooks in tough fish.
you've GOT to move that zoo creature quickly out of hard cover but, you still need a rod that is sensitive to the jig and bottom reading.

We are currently investigating power coating our jig heads to give better bottom reading.

If using a fluorocarbon mainline straight through, you need at least 15g to maintain bottom reading and, you cant hop jigs out of cover. It's more resistant to abrasion but I'd recommend a PE 1.5 for Wrasse with a 5ft leader. The fact that braid floats means that strike move lifts the jig and, we aren't talking rod sweeping strikes, just quick wrist movements.

Of course, this is the top end of HRF where we are expecting Wrasse to over 6lb and Bass of any size. Big Bream will obviously be on the cards too but, don't fish hooks too big.
We are looking for strong 4's and 2's on 10g heads. Otherwise, heavy carolina style or heavy drop shot. Again, another reason for the compound taper. Shaking is another often used technique.

Loads more detail but hope this helps.
 

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Jeez, i totally forgot about the HRF side. All sorted on the LRF (besides a few jigheads to acquire) Cheers for the above Keith and to Mike for asking the question.
 

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Cheers Keith. I've got a LOT of stuff sorted, but haven't used most of it yet so will stay quiet til I catch one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cheers Keith, very helpful. I think i have enough to get me started, then I can work out if i need anything else based on experience.

Ben, I can't believe you have a lot of stuff sorted.....
 

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Why not? Tis true Mike. Baits, weights, lines, bits and bobs. Various rig ideas to fish them all on. Only thing I need is a rod I don't mind bashing around. My Argento is too nice to beat up on the rocks (just because its new. I'm sure I will eventually).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Why not? Tis true Mike. Baits, weights, lines, bits and bobs. Various rig ideas to fish them all on. Only thing I need is a rod I don't mind bashing around. My Argento is too nice to beat up on the rocks (just because its new. I'm sure I will eventually).
LOL, I was joking! It seems like you have a constant stream of new tackle arriving.
I know what you mean about bashing gear around. All my kit gets well used but i am SOOOO careful not to scratch anything!!! A bit sad really!!!! I bought a Majorcraft 7ft 0.5 to 1.5oz two piece baitcaster last year to use for pike and HRF. 40% off so don't mind scratching it a bit.

If you want something relatively cheap but very good quality I still have a G Loomis SJR 783 GL3 for sale. It have had a number of double figure pike from the Thames on the bank inside 30 seconds on that rod!!! Deceptively powerful but still sensitive. One of the Shimano pros was using the GLX version for his demos in Nantes.
 

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Good reading. I've got the infeet for HRF, had it 6 months or so now and had quite a few pollack but not specifically targetted wrasse. I was planning to try some soon but big tide tomorrow means that I will need 20g plus heads to get to bottom where I am going so it's Vale Tudo time!!

Keith, or whoever, what type of heads do you find best? I have some cheapo stand up jigs form AGM but am quite happy to mould my own if I find a mould, round head?

I know the Bachi is popular but those really are a tad pricey, especially with an xlayer attached, to be losing them quite frequently.
 

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LOL, I was joking! It seems like you have a constant stream of new tackle arriving.
LOL, was fairly easy this time. I'm sure most people will already have most of the stuff they can use HRF stylee bashing around their drawers and cupboards. Massive crossover with the bass side isn't it really, just more focused with a few additional techniques. Tackle isn't that much different is it, although there is some slightly more job specific stuff.

Nice rod you're selling. I have some vouchers still to use at Fosters though so am thiking about trying an 8' Powermesh X Spin (<30g). As much as I'm just keen to try the rods out, it should do the job. May make a decent light bass rod too.
 

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Keith, or whoever, what type of heads do you find best?

I know the Bachi is popular but those really are a tad pricey, especially with an xlayer attached, to be losing them quite frequently.
Yep, Bachi are expensive but great. However, for serious HRF you cannot start worrying about end tackle loss.

Whilst xlayers etc are superb lures, save em for known territory. On exploratory missions I run owner 'football' heads in various sizes as they have nice strong and smaller hooks. Also the heads from AGM can be good but get round bend, ball type. Sabot heads would be great if we could find any that were any good.

Ideally, you need a head with a strong but medium wire hook. It needs to have a line tie that allows the lure to move as you want it. Fishing OTD really requires a tie that is 90 degree's to the shank but it isn't always the best when you want to do 'bottom work'. A tie that is 45 degree's or 60 degree's might be more beneficial. However, I will hold my hand up and say that we too are learning at an exponential rate and stuff I thought was right last year has almost been discarded as we have gone on to learn more.

Remember, me and Kev have been jig fishing for a loooong time but mostly with bucktails and the head weight is often offset by the bulk and floatation qualities of the hair. This said, we are convinced now that our standard 1/2oz bucktail was in actual fact, too heavy.

Go with affordable quality if you want any advice. We are going to mould our own sooner or later for HRF. Ball jig is one that you cannot really be without and I'd suggest get ones with round bend hooks and no collar with a 90 degree tie. Try to make the physical size of the head larger than the soft lure itself because otherwise the touchdown is dulled by the lure hitting the bottom first. I use a tick and flick over the rocks that allows the lure to drop more rapidly than when after Pollack. This ensures the jig/sp combo dives head first into the rock or bottom structure.

This is a very fluid situation right now Andy so please don't take my suggestions as absolute rules because they are not. We are still learning what is right and when and where too.

Tackle isn't that much different is it, although there is some slightly more job specific stuff.
Actually Ben, it can be. Some rods you pay serious money for just will not transfer bottom information to the angler. It's hard to explain but it is real. Some rods are just totally dull, some are lively, some are just ok. In fact, some hollow tips read bottom way better than some solid tips. And yet, the assumption is that a solid tip is more sensitive. For HRF, the good old bushwacker reads bottom like a £150 rod. Yet other £200 + rods just cannot. It's not a fault. British Sea lure rods just have never had bottom reading as part of a design brief. As a consequence, some will and some won't. I can guarantee that those that do, weren't meant too. It's just a bye product I think. This is why the Japanese and US sourced rods seem to have more feel. It IS part of the design brief.
 

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Actually Ben, it can be. Some rods you pay serious money for just will not transfer bottom information to the angler. It's hard to explain but it is real. Some rods are just totally dull, some are lively, some are just ok. In fact, some hollow tips read bottom way better than some solid tips. And yet, the assumption is that a solid tip is more sensitive. For HRF, the good old bushwacker reads bottom like a £150 rod. Yet other £200 + rods just cannot. It's not a fault. British Sea lure rods just have never had bottom reading as part of a design brief. As a consequence, some will and some won't. I can guarantee that those that do, weren't meant too. It's just a bye product I think. This is why the Japanese and US sourced rods seem to have more feel. It IS part of the design brief.
Fear not Keith, I was thinking more about end tackle to be honest. Bachi heads, Xlayers, Hazedongs... its all stuff lots of people are already likely to have bought for bass. You're right though.
 

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what's with you guy's and new gear lol,

recipe: get new rod and reel, close eye's, drop on rocks, jobs a good un, no more worrying.

kev
 
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