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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Following on from my Thread yesterday about s/p's, i was wondering . . . . . what would be considered to be a good general selection of Jig Heads that would cover most scenarios for an s/p beginner ? I'm thinking about a selection of say 5 different sorts (what styles, weights, etc..).

Also, do the weights just relate to the speed at which you would like the s/p to sink, or are there other considerations?
 

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I hope this doesn't sound too simple, but to start with I'd actually limit yourself to only a couple of weights, of a single allround style.

Also, as a beginner I'd recommend not going too light. Build up some confidence first using weights that you can actually 'feel' to start with. I'm not all that much further ahead myself but have caught a lot of fish on soft baits this year. I'd say go for something around 10 or maybe 14g to start with - the middle ground. And don't necessarily worry about going for the fanciest french or Japanese ones you can find. I have a load of Savage Gear football head type jobbies that cost less than £2 per pack and there's nothing wrong with them whatsoever! I still use them more than any others probably. They're also a good buy since when you're starting to fish with SP's you inevitably lose a few. You always will, but you'll lose less with time.

Any standard ball/football head will suffice to start with. the most important thing for you right now is just using a weight that is big enough to enable you some 'feel' and to CATCH SOME FISH. 10g especially will be good in most conditions. 14g will give you more feel though, but still catch you plenty of fish. With the fish your confidence will grow, and with experience (through catching fish) you'll start to realise where and when you should/could be using lighter or heavier jigheads.

Build up your knowledge with experience, rather than theory. Don't worry if you're not catching. If you know fish are there, you'll get one eventually.

So my advise: stick to 10 and 14g to start with, catch some fish, then start experimenting when you get the hang of it (thumbs up!) :p
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Awesome response Ben - makes a lot of sense !! Thank you very much!!

Si.
 

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No problemo. Actually, to add to that, DO however, consider getting a few articulated jigheads of the same size as above. Being able to attach various worm hooks and rig baits weedless is a big bonus when you're starting cos you'll hook fewer rocks and weed too - to save some sanity and ensure you don't just give up with it after losing your second or third bait on the trot. :)
 

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Good advice so far.

If you are working a lure closer to the bottom, then be realistic - be prepared to lose more lures.

Don't start out with expensive stuff.

Be bold with searching out every part of the mark.

Look out for fish taking the lure on the drop.

Here's a few from Megabass, Storm, Xorus, Cormoran, home-made, Decoy....We're spoiled for choice. The Owner JH-66 (not pictured) is a great articulated lead head but not cheap (the clue's in the brand name I guess).

 

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Nice one Saint. Out of interest, I can't remember off the top of my head which model they are (3rd down on the left), but what baits or in what conditions do you use them with? I have tried them but wasn't sure on whether they were right at the time. Found their shape doesn't exactly make a bait spin, but doesn't prevent it either... :?:
 

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Its a Decoy Violence-36 jig head (I think). Very light wire. I use it with tiny XLayers on my ultralite gear for mackerel and garfish.
 

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excellent thread guys, pretty converse with all the options regarding types and rigging from f/w seems to be many similar comparisons. im going to be concentrating more on critically balancing various sp`s for suspending, sub-surface, slow sinkers etc. so will put some info on a thread when i get a bit more involved with it!!! (waiting for my mini lcd digi scales).
 

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I've bought some of those scales too (I saw Dai's post)! :idea:

I am going to try to work out standard weighting for some SPs so that I can repeat rig them without having to revert to fiddling and testing at the water's edge. :geek:

Fingers crossed.

PS

We shouldn't forget pre-rigged SPs like weighted shads and the Sidewinder. They work really well but personally I like the contact and feedback I get from a leadhead touching weed and rock. It all seems a little duller with Sidewinders etc, but I find they work a treat up in the water. They are very popular down this way which is great because it is getting anglers into SPs, but they are just the tip of the iceberg.
 

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st ouen said:
Its a Decoy Violence-36 jig head (I think). Very light wire. I use it with tiny XLayers on my ultralite gear for mackerel and garfish.
Cheers. I've fished the 2/0 size with a normal xlayer. They're not so stable in the water (hard to explain but rather than lifting/twitching to a point above the lead, the line obviously attaches to the front of these - whcih lefts the bait roll/twitch in pretty much any direction. Which is a good thing I guess if you're not over working it (like i was I'd guess). Depends how you fish it I spose.
 

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my thoughts aswell Paul!!! pre-rigged hooks for various size and styles sp`s at various depths, theory seems spot on!! i have loads of lead wire on rolls used in fly tying to run along a texposer hook to weight it, plus you can position it on certain parts of the hook for head dropping, horizontal dropping etc!!! gonna get cracking soon and post a thread!!! as i say theoretically it could be revelation........field testing will give the answers!! cant bloody wait.
 

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BJF said:
st ouen said:
Its a Decoy Violence-36 jig head (I think). Very light wire. I use it with tiny XLayers on my ultralite gear for mackerel and garfish.
Cheers. I've fished the 2/0 size with a normal xlayer. They're not so stable in the water (hard to explain but rather than lifting/twitching to a point above the lead, the line obviously attaches to the front of these - whcih lefts the bait roll/twitch in pretty much any direction. Which is a good thing I guess if you're not over working it (like i was I'd guess). Depends how you fish it I spose.

That's a good observation. The nose attachment does give the lure a more unpredictable action. It certainly rolls more and I don't think they need too much work. I find they do help get an SP out just by balancing the lure during the cast then they sink nice and slowly, depending on the SP body.
 

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Mr Zzippy said:
my thoughts aswell Paul!!! pre-rigged hooks for various size and styles sp`s at various depths, theory seems spot on!! i have loads of lead wire on rolls used in fly tying to run along a texposer hook to weight it, plus you can position it on certain parts of the hook for head dropping, horizontal dropping etc!!! gonna get cracking soon and post a thread!!! as i say theoretically it could be revelation........field testing will give the answers!! cant bloody wait.
And you can use lead nail inserts to weight the SP itself. Personally I try to keep the hook as clean as possible but I don't think it matters much to a hungry fish. They are concentrating on the silhouette of the SP body I suppose.
 

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Mr Zzippy said:
yip know what your saying. also paul you can get adhesive leadfoil for flytying which could be useful for sp`s with belly slits.
That's a great idea. I have a stock of FinS Fish that I bought for vertical SP fishing from the boat, currently have some rigged on 20-40g heads. First three in the left column below and second down in the right hand column.



I can feel an experiment or two coming up this winter!
 

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I have been using softies more and more this year and would have to say I love it.
I like the way you can work them 'dead slow'.
I have had most success with the Sluggos in the 7.5" (pink) size and have been using those belly weights that you can get to go with the Texposer hooks.
Lost a very big fish in midd September and am not sure about the Texposer hooks though.
I let the Sluggo sink to the bottom and work it back ultra 'dead slow'.
 

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Interesting that pink is working well. It seems to be catching on.

I don't like Texposer hooks personally. I find there is something counter-intuitive about the shape of the bend of the hook. I've only ever snapped one, but that was enough.
 

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st ouen said:
Interesting that pink is working well. It seems to be catching on.

I don't like Texposer hooks personally. I find there is something counter-intuitive about the shape of the bend of the hook. I've only ever snapped one, but that was enough.
I know what you mean about that,those belly weights do work well though and fit the texposer perfectly.
I think I will try some different hooks next year.
If I was to start using the 9" sluggos would I be better off using a larger hook than the 5/0 texposer that I use with the 7.5" version :?:
 

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What a fantastic thread, and after a few days of fishing various jigheads in Ireland in strong currants and still waters I must agree with all of what Ben, Paul and Senor Zippy have said. Ben you are so right, start with a few cheap heads, say 10g to 15g, get some stick shaped softies and a few paddle tails for when the water is slacker. We found that getting the correct weight in strong tide was critical, litterally a gram difference was what made the difference between feeling the bottom as the lure was tapping it and either having it too heavy and no natural action r too light and it just drifting down the tide like a piece of plastic. The rods made ALL the difference, feeling is crutial, you must be able to feel everything and keep contact with the lure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
mrfishjersey said:
The rods made ALL the difference, feeling is crutial, you must be able to feel everything and keep contact with the lure.
****, on the subject of 'rods' what did you guys find that worked well, and what didnt work as well ?
 
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