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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys,

While out this weekend I noticed others in our group were using leaders, my questions are, 1) what type of knots do you use when tying the braid to the leader ? 2) I am using powershot braid to 25lbs, what breaking strain should the leader be ?

Regards !
 
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Some swear by the Albright knot (see ****'s YouTube video). Neat but I have seen them unravel.

There's a fancy knot I can't pronounce otherwise known as the GT knot.

I double the end of the braid over and use a plain Uni to Uni knot with at least 5 or 6 turns each side so it tucks in nicely. Inelegant? Maybe but reliable.
 

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I use 20-25lb flurocarbon leader (hard compund-like Seaguar) albrighted to the braid, with a five turn albright. Never had it fail so far, even on tuna. I do use a locking knot after the albright using the tag end of braid. Which improves the strength and helps streamline the knot. A touch of super glue finishes it off.
As with Mr Zzippy, If I have ANY doubts about the knot/leader I change it. Learnt the hard way to do that.
 

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Albright knot for me aswell Steve, 7 or 8 turns up then down, I have 23lb braid and 20lb Varivas Fluro, again wether this is ideal I dont know but it seems to work and the knot is strong enouth that it has straightened a couple of trebles when I've snagged lures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Guys,

Thanks for the posts so far, do any of these knots appear on youtube or anywhere else visual, as I have trouble following them in a magazine or book ?

Regards !
 

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Hmmmmmm I've always used a Wardy albright too, but I am seriously thinking about using a swivel with a couple of bog standard half blood knots for the leader. I can't see this being weaker than that albright braid to fluoro leader and it has the added facility of being able to clip on a teaser nice and easily if circumstance dictates.

Any thoughts?
 

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Someone already mentioned the GT knot, it was given that name by a guide in the Seychelles but the universal name is the FG knot. It's a friction knot where you don't tie a knot in the traditional sense. There's other similar knots called the PR, Midknot etc etc. All designed by the Japanese, very clever.

What's great about them is that because you don't actually form a knot with the braid you never have an issue with braid's terrible knot strength. So your PE1.5 breaks at its stated breaking strain. Unless you get a shock take in which case you hope your shock leader absorbs the stress. Another massive bonus is that because there is no "knot" in the mono you get no obstruction when it goes through the guides.

Here's a tutorial on the FG knot by Bruce Horner;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_qom1E-ihA

And one on the PR Knot
http://www.jigsdirect.com/eMerchantPro/pc/fishing_knots.asp

They are a ball-ache to tie but with practice you can do them fairly quickly, even on a rocking boat. There are also tools you can get to tie them from Studio Ocean Mark, Shout! and another that Plat has that I can't remember the name of. Here's a link to the tools. I have the Shout Bobin Knotter and am getting the L version of the FG Knotter.
http://www.plat.co.jp/shop/catalog/.../32_1350/fishing-gear-accessories/knoter.html

If you tie either of these knots you must remember that you must maintain constant reasonably heavy pressure on the braid. For the knot to work it has to constrict the mono. A good way of telling if it is tight enough is to look at the colour. If it is tight enough it will be a different colour to the standing end of the knot.

I had some issues with both uni knot connections and albrights. Not all the time but I got the impression that if I didn't tie them absolutely perfectly they would fail at way below the where I'd expect. I don't have these issues with the friction knots.

Another bonus is you can use them on baitcasters where a bulkier uni-uni or albright would snag on the level wind.
 

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If we are going for real heavy duty connections, then a whipped connection between leader and the newer hollow braids are by far the strongest and slimmest. Personally I have never had any problem with a locked albright knot. Yes you have to pay attention when you are tying it, and a spot of super glue (waterproof type) doesn't hurt.
 

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What's the general opinion about the Bimini twist. I used it for attaching braid to shock leader when using it for beach casting and found it very strong. Takes a bit of practice to make a good knot but well worth it.

Haven't used a leader with plugs so far but it looks like I need to try it.


It's Interesting reading about striking and setting the hooks using braid. I was always under the impression that you just lifted into the fish and didn't strike as you could be in danger of pulling out or damaging the fish. Does that not make sense or am I just talking bo**ocks.
 

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I've used the Lindeman knot for a year now, which I found HERE, easy to tie and strong too - the double loop through the swivel, hook etc does it, we did an unscientific test and it really makes a difference even on ye olde half blood knot. I tie on a snap link and have my leaders and rigs made up (same knot) ready to clip on.
 

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What's the general opinion about the Bimini twist. I used it for attaching braid to shock leader when using it for beach casting and found it very strong. Takes a bit of practice to make a good knot but well worth it.

Haven't used a leader with plugs so far but it looks like I need to try it.


It's Interesting reading about striking and setting the hooks using braid. I was always under the impression that you just lifted into the fish and didn't strike as you could be in danger of pulling out or damaging the fish. Does that not make sense or am I just talking bo**ocks.
Trev, imho you don't have to strike our bass, you are doing the right thing by simply lifting in to the fish, especially if you are using a "standard" plug with trebles. I can understand striking if you have a softie rigged texas style, but generally speaking, lifting in to the fish is exactly what to do.

Dave, how do you lock your albright?
 

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Totally agree with Bassorama,
I never strike with a plug, just reel into the weight and lift into the weight. Hence why really sharp trebles are so important. This way if the bass bumps/tailslaps the plug you don't rip it away from the bass, giving you a chance of a second take.
 

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Trev, imho you don't have to strike our bass, you are doing the right thing by simply lifting in to the fish, especially if you are using a "standard" plug with trebles. I can understand striking if you have a softie rigged texas style, but generally speaking, lifting in to the fish is exactly what to do.
Not all styles involve winding and, many styles involve the use of a strike. It's knowing when that matters.
 

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Whilst I haven't caught as many bass as some on here, I've never lost a fish because I didn't "strike" in to it when using a hard plastic plug with trebles.

I could imagine I would in different forms of fishing with different baits though and yes, knowing the difference is vital.
 
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