I’ve only been dropshotting for the last few months so still learning and improving but this is my personal guide based on my fishing. The most important thing to remember with dropshotting is that it is designed for finesse fishing so fast actioned rods are a no no. You need a softer tipped rod, quite “spongy” that won’t over-work the lure (over-working the lure with fast ctioned rods result in the lure darting and looping) which is very unnatural. Dropshotting is also for close range work, at this time of year the perch in my local waters are shoaled up, usually near structure and this technique allows me to work the lure for longer in the strike zone whilst at the same time allowing me to experiment with the presentation. (I find “pulsating” and “quivering” the lure the best). I`m currently using 6lb fluoro mainline on an 8`2” 3-18grm rod (very soft spongy tip but plenty of power in the mid to butt section) with 5,7,10 and 12grm dropshot weights (I use the round shaped ones) I hold the rod at around 120 degrees which enables me to impart as much action as I like but still allows enough angle to set the hook, keep the rod directly in front of you. To tie the drop shot I select the hook according to bait size and tie it (I start with the hook at 18 inches from the end which allows cutting/altering the fishing depth) using a polomar knot, after tying the polomar, take the tag end back through the eye which helps the hook to stand out at 90 degrees. Baits can be rigged texas, texsposed, nose hooked etc. (as for size I use anything from 1-6 inch dependant on profile but usually baits 4-6” have very slim profile or, are worm baits) 1-3” can be anything from grubs, paddletails, craws, creatures etc) The most important thing to remember is the weight of the dropshot, 5-12grm is fine for 1-3” baits but on worm baits upto 6” you need to be using heavier (anything from 15-30grms) and if dropshotting a river you need to start heavier to counter the flow. I am still experimenting with using circle hooks and nose mounted baits as well as with the use of scents and rattles so will hold back my findings until I have more of a definite pattern! “Low and slow” has been the principle I have used for a lot of my freshwater lure fishing during the winter months keeping the rig close to structure and cover or along shelf edges, drop-offs etc. One thing that is 100% proven is the hook-up rate which has been far superior to baits mounted on jigs. I snag-up far less and I am able to fish the bait exactly where I want and at any depth I want. This is just a quick basic guide to get you started. Hope it helps, any questions just ask!!!
