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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know a couple of people on here fish vertical with some success, St Ouen (Paul) for one. I was hoping you could provide some general guidance as to techniques you use, lures worth trying and general approach. I have half heartedly had a few goes (mainly when I couldnt get the live eel!) but didnt really have much clue as to what I was aiming for. Do you use mainly jigheads and softbaits, or do you use the pressbait type lures, metal jigs etc.

I am keen on giving this more of a go this year, so any tips would be welcome.
 

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Mark Sleep said:
I know a couple of people on here fish vertical with some success, St Ouen (Paul) for one. I was hoping you could provide some general guidance as to techniques you use, lures worth trying and general approach. I have half heartedly had a few goes (mainly when I couldnt get the live eel!) but didnt really have much clue as to what I was aiming for. Do you use mainly jigheads and softbaits, or do you use the pressbait type lures, metal jigs etc.

I am keen on giving this more of a go this year, so any tips would be welcome.
Mark,

No secret that boatwise I've focused on vertical fishing SPs on jigheads for a year or three. Before that I had tried some speed jigging lures as a progression from the traditional big Yanns in deep water (very different animal) but to be honest I haven't tried the scaled down versions.

Likewise I haven't used Press Baits for vertical jigging much but I have cast a few at exposed reefs and features early season with mixed success. Apart from distance I haven't found they have any huge advantage over SPs, but there again I might not have been in the right place at the right time.

Vertical SPs are relatively easy, in fact so simple and effective I am surprised they haven't really caught on yet. It will take off one day I am sure, especially as boat anglers are now starting to value other hard fighting species like wrasse and start to use the right sort of tackle. Not to mention the retailers having the guts to stock the stuff.

Vertical SP technique or a close casting hybrid will even work off the shore in the right places, but then maybe that's a different story.

I'll try to put something together for you in the next week or so.
 

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A baitrunner is an option for vertical jigging (leave the bail arm closed & use the runner to drop the lure - makes it easier to engage if the fish takes on the drop)
 

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Alex Jordan said:
Paul - I would be really keen to hear about your vertical jigging and SP exploits! (especially with pressbaits etc)

Thought youd like this Alex http://www.caranx.net/bermuda_report_2008.htm- jigging in Bermuda (never tried jigging when I lived there but I wish I had after looking at the pics lol)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alex Jordan said:
Paul - I would be really keen to hear about your vertical jigging and SP exploits! (especially with pressbaits etc)
Ditto. Will look forward to reading some of your pointers Paul, and anyone else that has knowledge of the technique. Cheers
 

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Mark,

For starters here is a copy of a post I made some time ago in another place, just to get things going.


"....about vertical soft plastic fishing, mostly aimed at reefs. It's my way so its not gospel, but it works:-

"MrFish and I were having a conversation on that subject today, after the lesson that Horatio apparently gave him yesterday.

First of all, there's no "right way". Here's my way for boat fishing SPs, it is copied from French anglers and it works. It can be adapted for shore fishing by using lighter lures/lead heads. Most of the time I drop the lure to the bottom vertically, although the following can apply to casting the lure away from the boat or shore, usually over shallower ground.

Drop the lure to the bottom, feathering the line slightly to maintain some contact, stopping the lure sometimes 3-6ft at a time as it approaches the bottom. A fishfinder or just a simple depth sounder is very helpful, if not essential.

Over rough ground if you fish hard on the bottom not only will you (a) lose more lures but (b) you'll also have your lure out of site of fish that are further away (think about it) - and remember SPs aren't normally as noisy as plugs, although rattles seem to be popular I don't think they make much difference in clear water when fish are 20ft away.

On cleaner ground bumping the bottom (and probably sending up puffs of sand) seems to work well. But I'm still waiting for that turbot....

Once the lure is on the bottom, retrieve line to take the lure off bottom, say 3ft plus, up to where you think the fish are at, again maybe referring to a fishfinder or just the shape of the bottom on the sounder.

The more vertical your line the better so anything from 5g to 80g or 100g may be necessary in a decent current. I would suggest learning the amount of line that your reel will retrieve on one turn of the handle and use that measurement to work out the height of your lure above the bottom. Maybe write it in permanent marker on your rod butt if you are unsure.

Then comes the more difficult bit, imparting life into the lure. I wouldn't suggest you try to imagine what your lure is doing on the bottom. Test it next to the boat in clearer water and try different twitches, pulls etc. Don't worry about imitating the mating dance of the greater launce - there's a place for science in all of this but for me plain erratic works well.

Watch the lure as it falls as this is the time when the lure is most often taken nearer the bottom. The real key to vertical SP fishing is to keep the line taut(ish) on the descent of the lure and keep in contact with the lure, and to strike firmly but not wildly if the lure "stops" unexpectedly. Otherwise fish will hook themselves as the lure climbs through the water. I generally try to get the lure to move within a 3-6ft range (I use a 2m rod so that's about the limit of what I can manage).

Some days the fish will seem to react better to small twitches, other times to long slow vertical pulls and drops. Other days the will take a static lure without warning as the angler rests or looks up from the fishing (often for inspiration in my case). If there are two or more of you on the boat then vary lures and depths (just like plugs) until you find fish.

If you are retrieving you lure from the bottom then keep working it up to at least 20ft off the bottom/top of any structure if not right up to the boat. You will get follows from bass, wrasse and pollack and they will sometimes take near the boat.

A specialist vertical lure rod helps but a short lure rod (under 9ft) will do the job and get you started. I'd suggest 30lb braid and a short (say 3ft) FC leader. Set your drag to about as heavy as your rod can safely manage and hang on.

Hope this helps. When you get the hang of it (it doesn't take long) take a die hard plug fisherman with you and show him what he's missing."

Is that any help?
 

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Vidar introduced me to FW vertical jigging last year on a reservoir, still in 60ft of water. The most important part I learnt was keep in contact with your lure. Don't know about SW but in 60ft of FW anything over 10lb braid and you loose all sensitivity and cannot feel the lure as it touches bottom. The thicker the braid the more drag it creates and the more your line starts to bow with the current (even in fw). I used a baitcasting reel, Vidar both FS & Multiplier. Both of us used short rods, 6'2" there abouts. The FW water technique on a clean bottom is very very simple. 18gr+ jigheads and paddle or split tail shads. Drop the SP to the bottom on a slightly tight line so you can feel it all the way down. Once at the bottom, tighten the line, thumb the spool or close the bail arm, and keep the line tight at all times. Start with a horizontal rod, gently raise the rod tip 9 to 12" hold for 10 seconds, gently drop back to the bottom maintaining a tight line. Do this for several hours non stop (except for coffee breaks) and you end up doing it instinctively. The SP gives the impression of a nose up poorly bait on the hold part and the tail adds extra action as it's lowered in the current. A strong bottom current and the SP will sit and swim on the hold. Takes are definative but you do need to set the hook.
 

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Interesting method.

What depths are we talking here?

Fishing directly beneath the boat I guess needs a fair depth or the fish will be spooked?

Depends on the size of boat I guess.

Also, what are your thoughts on leaving the sounder on, fish scarer or not?
 

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This is something i want to do alot of this summer,my main question is whether you are drifting with the tide/wind when fishing,or do you drop anchor. The main problem for me along the north wales coast is that the tide doesnt half shift.This summer i dropped the anchor in about 35ft of water and then lowered a dexter wedge into the water which took off down current,after letting out about 30yds of line and just holding my rod still the wedge came up to end up fishing itself probably about 6-8ft down. the only way to get it to go down vertically and stay there was to drift,that brings in the problem of snagging as you pass over large 6-8 ft high rocks.Is it a case of only being able to fish this method at slack water in an area like that? Any advise much appreciated.
 

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Guys could do with some answers on this situation.
I drift fish a bank that rises off the sea bed from 100ft to 70ft at times (on springs) there are plenty of Bass and I catch them on flying collar rigs with 4" Sidewinders using 15lb braid mainline 6oz lead.......no problems.

I would really like to try Vertical Jigging, could you give me specific advice on lure, and weight of lure, lure rigging and were to purchase the said lures what I want to do is get my buddy fishing using standard methods and me trying the Vertical Jigging method then compare results.

Your advice would be very welcome

A.T.B Chris
 

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One of the best vertical jigging lures over here is the flashmer yann,i know Bob Jameson & myself have had many large Bass & Pollock on them. One of the things that affects vertical jigging more than anything else is the wind.If there is no breeze you will drift at the same speed as the tide, this allows you to fish straight up & down with relative ease with light lures,as the breeze picks up it will either push you across the tide, ahead of the tide or hold you back from the tide.There are a couple of things that can be done to stay in touch with the bottom,one of the things that used to work well was to cast down wind at various distances depending on weight of lure & wind strength,always trying to get your lure to hit bottom as the boat was vertically over it,if you can coincide this as you pass over the kill zone(normally over the top of a reef,bank etc)you should catch.Alternatively as the breeze picks up you can just increase the weight of your lure.The only thing that can make things difficult when theres no wind are sudden changes in current caused by reefs,sand banks etc,(the best places to fish).This is where feeling the first touch of the seabed is important so as not to snag up.To avoid this drop the tip of the rod as close to the sea as you can when you think your getting close,on the first touch stop the line & lift the rod nearly vertically,wind line as the rod drops back to horizontal,this will have your lure working around 6 feet off bottom.As you come up over the bank, reef etc retrieve at a speed & style that best suits the lure you have on.With a yann its quite fast,paddle tail shads at more of a medium pace.
Another thing to think about is using your plugs on a flying collar rig.It works well for deep water bass & has produced many biggies in Jersey.A 15ft snood length seems to work best on a slowish retrieve.

Hope this helps Steve. :)
 
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steve mullins said:
Another thing to think about is using your plugs on a flying collar rig.It works well for deep water bass & has produced many biggies in Jersey.A 15ft snood length seems to work best on a slowish retrieve.

Hope this helps Steve. :)
Hi Steve

When you say thinking about using your plugs on a flying collar rig. Do you mean shallow/deep diving plugs or things like eddystone eels/xlayers?

Many thanks

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks Steve. I remember hearing about commericals on the UK south coast using plugs on Portland rigs/flying collars, in fact I think it was the Portland Race guys! Isnt that something they used over in the deep water off the Minquiers as well? Its something I am def going to give a try over the banks out west when drifting over clean ground. Something like a Sliver I'd imagine would be good where you find the Launce. You say slow retrieve though, are you casting this rig from the boat? Otherwise I suppose that unless you are drifting fast enough to leave it down there, then its a case of dropping down, reeling up again, over and over?

I am still keen on targetting areas in the 30-100ft range over rough ground though. Will put into practice some of the tips from Paul. Just thinking though that by having to use a 75g jighead to be able to get a good straight line down, the action of the lure as you lift and and fall is going to be pretty drab? A kind of a dead fall and then a jerk back up. I suppose its a compromise about having enough weight to be able to effectively fish down and stay in contact, and still being able to inject some subtle life into the lure. How to present a twitched light head xlayer at 100ft, 3ft off the bottom?!
 

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Gary A said:
[quote="steve mullins":1yny8w1z]
Another thing to think about is using your plugs on a flying collar rig.It works well for deep water bass & has produced many biggies in Jersey.A 15ft snood length seems to work best on a slowish retrieve.

Hope this helps Steve. :)
Hi Steve

When you say thinking about using your plugs on a flying collar rig. Do you mean shallow/deep diving plugs or things like eddystone eels/xlayers?

Many thanks

Gary[/quote:1yny8w1z]
It does'nt matter if its a deep or shallow diver as its the weight of the lead that controls its depth,what i found more important was the action & colour.
Fast erratic action plugs out fished the slower ones,but the best was the pink coloured Yozuri surface squirt,its actually a floating diver that looks like a squid,as soon as we got in depths of 80ft plus this lure started to out fish all others,it catches big pollock as well.
 

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Mark Sleep said:
... Just thinking though that by having to use a 75g jighead to be able to get a good straight line down, the action of the lure as you lift and and fall is going to be pretty drab? A kind of a dead fall and then a jerk back up. I suppose its a compromise about having enough weight to be able to effectively fish down and stay in contact, and still being able to inject some subtle life into the lure. How to present a twitched light head xlayer at 100ft, 3ft off the bottom?!
Its a fair point and you are thinking along exactly the right lines.

If you are worried about the amount of action in the lure, there is no 100% answer, except to use braid, try articulated jig heads and mount your SPs so as to maximise movement. Also try flat surface downward etc for XLayers and Mother Worms and Mother Eels as set out in earlier threads here and on WSF, or try using tailed SPs like Rolling Shads, One Up Shads, GT shads, even the vastly under rated Sidewinder.

Don't get hung up on the amount of movement though. I have caught plenty of fish with the lure stopped dead in the water whilst I get distracted by the sounder or the radio.

Sometimes getting a lure to move a lot then stop still seems irresistible to the fish.
 

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To Mark Sleep, i'm afraid its a case of drop down & wind up. :D
 
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