[The Squid]

Question to Vidar.

I remember that in the past you have reported on the real breaking strain of Power Pro. During the last week I have seen Power Pro advertised on the web marked in LBs and not .19, etc. Have they changed their packaging or is it contiant specific?

Currently using Power Pro .19 ((approximatly 15lb breaking strain (not 13KG)) for rock work, and .13 (approximatly 10lb breaking strain (not 8KG)).

 

[Vidar Thomassen]

Question to Vidar.

I remember that in the past you have reported on the real breaking strain of Power Pro. During the last week I have seen Power Pro advertised on the web marked in LBs and not .19, etc. Have they changed their packaging or is it contiant specific?

Currently using Power Pro .19 ((approximatly 15lb breaking strain (not 13KG)) for rock work, and .13 (approximatly 10lb breaking strain (not 8KG)).

Here you go

0.10mm diameter is 5Ib breaking strain
0.13mm diameter is 8Ib breaking strain
0.15mm diameter is 10Ib breaking strain
0.19mm diameter is 15Ib breaking strain
0.23mm diameter is 20Ib breaking strain
0.28mm diameter is 30Ib breaking strain

Forget about the metric labelling in kilo (kg) as they are utter nonsense and bear no relation to the reality.

 

[The Squid]

Question to Vidar.

I remember that in the past you have reported on the real breaking strain of Power Pro. During the last week I have seen Power Pro advertised on the web marked in LBs and not .19, etc. Have they changed their packaging or is it contiant specific?

Currently using Power Pro .19 ((approximatly 15lb breaking strain (not 13KG)) for rock work, and .13 (approximatly 10lb breaking strain (not 8KG)).

Here you go

0.13mm diameter is 8Ib breaking strain
0.15mm diameter is 10Ib breaking strain
0.19mm diameter is 15Ib breaking strain
0.23mm diameter is 20Ib breaking strain
0.28mm diameter is 30Ib breaking strain

Forget about the metric labelling in kilo (kg) as they are utter nonsense and bear no relation to the reality.

Thanks Vidar

 

[Retired]

One of my favourite bits of info posted on a lure forum ever. Nice to have it on here for future reference. Thanks Chris and Vidar.

 

[Nick Phillips]

One of my favourite bits of info posted on a lure forum ever. Nice to have it on here for future reference. Thanks Chris and Vidar.

Totally right there mate.
A real eye opener and made me think what I was doing etc.
I only use the .23 and .28 diameter stuff as it gives me confidence with £20+ plugs.
I was going to swap to the .19 but not now.
I think we should call it the "Vidar Scale"

 

[Retired]

"the Vidar Scale"

Like it!

 

[Keith White]

I use 0.19 and have never bust a plug out when tied direct on PP.

In fact, I also use 0.13 and have never bust a fish off.

Go figure ?

 

[Nick Phillips]

I use 0.19 and have never bust a plug out when tied direct on PP.

In fact, I also use 0.13 and have never bust a fish off.

Go figure ?

I think the problems come even with the wonderful PP when you introduce a join to a leader etc .

 

[Vidar Thomassen]

I use 0.19 and have never bust a plug out when tied direct on PP.

In fact, I also use 0.13 and have never bust a fish off.

Go figure ?

I use nothing but 0.10mm and 0.13mm (5 & 8Ib) for my trout & char fishing and I’ve landed them to over 3.5 kilo (over 7.5Ib) without ever feeling under gunned. However, the abrasion resistance on these thin lines are noting to write home about, and I’ve had them sever when fishing rocky condition and consequently always use a leader during such conditions.

 

[Keith White]

However, the abrasion resistance on these thin lines are noting to write home about

Agreed, pays to be careful.

 

[Tim Griffin]

I have just purchased 3 spools of the .23 (20lb!) PP for the 2010 season so it is good to see that I have chosen a well regarded product. I've been using Whiplash Crystal until now with no problems, but it is tired after two seasons and due to be replaced. I think the comment about the weakness arriving when you add a leader is very, very relevant. I use a short fluoro leader attached via an Albright knot and if I get snagged, it ALWAYS gives at the knot. I know this has been covered a million times, but is there really a benefit to using a leader versus tying the lure/clip direct to the braid? I ask because only once this year did George or myself get bust off by a fish taking the line around the rocks (it was a seriously big fish too and the fluoro was bug*ered on a barnacle covered rock) - as the fluoro didn't give the desired abrasion resistance, would it be better to eliminate the inherent weakness of a leader knot? I really welcome your advice, especially the best knot for tying lures/clips direct to braid.
By the way I have selected three different colours (yellow, green and red) on the Power pro just for fun and to see if it makes any difference!

 

[Retired]

I use PP with the end doubled over, then a uni knot in the fluoro leader and the same in the doubled over braid, each 5+ turns so they tuck in nicely.

The fluoro usually breaks nearer the lure rather than at the leader knot, but I always replace the leader any way as that much strain on the knot can't be healthy.

 

[Nick Phillips]

However, the abrasion resistance on these thin lines are noting to write home about

Agreed, pays to be careful.

I think the extra bit of 'umf' with the .23 or .28 gives me that little bit of confidence especially with megabucks plugs and snaggy areas etc.

 

[The Squid]

I have just purchased 3 spools of the .23 (20lb!) PP for the 2010 season so it is good to see that I have chosen a well regarded product. I've been using Whiplash Crystal until now with no problems, but it is tired after two seasons and due to be replaced. I think the comment about the weakness arriving when you add a leader is very, very relevant. I use a short fluoro leader attached via an Albright knot and if I get snagged, it ALWAYS gives at the knot. I know this has been covered a million times, but is there really a benefit to using a leader versus tying the lure/clip direct to the braid? I ask because only once this year did George or myself get bust off by a fish taking the line around the rocks (it was a seriously big fish too and the fluoro was bug*ered on a barnacle covered rock) - as the fluoro didn't give the desired abrasion resistance, would it be better to eliminate the inherent weakness of a leader knot? I really welcome your advice, especially the best knot for tying lures/clips direct to braid.
By the way I have selected three different colours (yellow, green and red) on the Power pro just for fun and to see if it makes any difference!

The .19PP is the biggest seller in the tackle shop that I lurk in.

I use .23 with 20lb leader in the realy rough areas or when I have a go for the Wrasse on SPs. .19PP with 15lb leader for all my general fishing and .13PP with 10lb leader when using small plugs and SPs on beach marks or rock marks with cleanish bottoms.

 

[Vidar Thomassen]

The .19PP is the biggest seller in the tackle shop that I lurk in.

I use .23 with 20lb leader in the realy rough areas or when I have a go for the Wrasse on SPs. .19PP with 15lb leader for all my general fishing and .13PP with 10lb leader when using small plugs and SPs on beach marks or rock marks with cleanish bottoms.

That sound like some good choices to me

 

[Keith White]

I know this has been covered a million times, but is there really a benefit to using a leader versus tying the lure/clip direct to the braid?

Sure there is..

Braid sucks against abrasion.

Bass are abrasive, not just rocks. I would advise making your leader just a little longer than the biggest Bass you would
expect to hook. Around 80cm would cover most big fish or that once ever season or so double.

Honestly, folk's say they they've been bust on rocks loads of times, get a leader back that is abraded but..alot
of it can be from the fish. Kev hooked up a Bass (a keeper for the Bass Festival) against his wetsuit and walked
a few hundred yards. Nearly wore through the outer material !

So yes, use a leader.

Many will not agree with the long leader I've recommended saying they want the knot outside the tip guide when casting.
Shorter leaders will protect against the head of the Bass but that is about all should you hook a big girl.

 

[Tim Griffin]

Cheers, Keith. Hadn't considered that angle! Biggest bass for ne so far is about 65 cm, so will bear thast in mind for next season.

 

[Nick Phillips]

I have just purchased 3 spools of the .23 (20lb!) PP for the 2010 season so it is good to see that I have chosen a well regarded product. I've been using Whiplash Crystal until now with no problems, but it is tired after two seasons and due to be replaced. I think the comment about the weakness arriving when you add a leader is very, very relevant. I use a short fluoro leader attached via an Albright knot and if I get snagged, it ALWAYS gives at the knot. I know this has been covered a million times, but is there really a benefit to using a leader versus tying the lure/clip direct to the braid? I ask because only once this year did George or myself get bust off by a fish taking the line around the rocks (it was a seriously big fish too and the fluoro was bug*ered on a barnacle covered rock) - as the fluoro didn't give the desired abrasion resistance, would it be better to eliminate the inherent weakness of a leader knot? I really welcome your advice, especially the best knot for tying lures/clips direct to braid.
By the way I have selected three different colours (yellow, green and red) on the Power pro just for fun and to see if it makes any difference!

The .19PP is the biggest seller in the tackle shop that I lurk in.

I use .23 with 20lb leader in the realy rough areas or when I have a go for the Wrasse on SPs. .19PP with 15lb leader for all my general fishing and .13PP with 10lb leader when using small plugs and SPs on beach marks or rock marks with cleanish bottoms.

Maybee the .19 is the most popular size because people thought it was 20lbs bs.

 

[anselmo]

Here you go

0.10mm diameter is 5Ib breaking strain
0.13mm diameter is 8Ib breaking strain
0.15mm diameter is 10Ib breaking strain
0.19mm diameter is 15Ib breaking strain
0.23mm diameter is 20Ib breaking strain
0.28mm diameter is 30Ib breaking strain

Forget about the metric labelling in kilo (kg) as they are utter nonsense and bear no relation to the reality.

Vidar

Is this the listed BS or the tested BS?
I understand that PP like most Braids actually tests and breaks above the listed BS

Nick

 

[Andy Marquis]

Nick, if i remember right, this is an american thing not converting KG's to lb's correctly, or rather at all. I think the numbers in Vidars posts come from the conversion of US inch ratings to the mm diameter ratings. i.e. the us equivalent of 0.19mm (0.008 inches) in inches is sold as being 15lb breaking strain in the US but in the Uk it's sold at 13kg. It's the same on their website which states that 0.008inch is 15lb and 0.19mm is 13kg. Americans eh!!