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Discussion Starter #1
Ok this has most likely been covered before. But when fishing ultralite for Perch or chub, do you use a wire trace or not? If not do you use a floro/mono leader from the braid?
 

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Ok this has most likely been covered before. But when fishing ultralite for Perch or chub, do you use a wire trace or not? If not do you use a floro/mono leader from the braid?
Always use wire mate,its the only thing that will stop the toothy ones.
 

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I would get out there and experiment. If you don't ming loosing the odd softy to a toothy one then use fluro. Also if you are going really light on the lures a trace will impeade the action/reduce sensetivity.
 

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I fish a small river for perch, trout and chub but I always use wire as I dont want to leave a lure in a pikes mouth. I understand the temtation when fishing light but if you try using some of the very thin, light wire you can get for flyfishing for pike it would be a good compromise and doesnt detract from the action of the lure.
 

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I do find this a difficult topic. I've got some very fine wire (<10lb)which I can knot. I once tied a knot and put the tag end in my mouth to pull on and bit straight through the wire. There comes a time when fine is simply too fine and I'm sure there's a point at which a pike could easily bite through thin wire if I can, so whats the point in using it? Working ultralight on 1 or 2g lures and single hooks simply doesn't work with a 20lb wire trace. Swings and roundabouts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok see what your saying. Where can I get some light thin wire, that is also knotable so as to get rid of crimps?
 

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Some of the better wires are from the states, http://www.tygerleader.com/ make a great wire and it's available via several Uk websites. Gauged in inches something like 0.014" is 0.35mm which in a sense isn't that fine. I've got some beading wire (from my wife) http://www.softflexcompany.com/SPD/...t--21-strand-premium--4D2E0000-1158935209.jsphttp://www.softflexcompany.com which is really supple and is rated similar to the tygerwire. Both are easy to cut with not so sharp scissors (or teeth !!). I have tried static weigh tests on the above wires and generally they break BEFORE their stated breaking strain and nearly always at the knot.

The premium wires though are BOA http://www.wireleader.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=WL&Category_Code=BNPLW and these go really thin and light. I've only used the heavy wire but I'm sure they are just as good in the lower diameter. A similar wire is the Knot2Kinky wire from agm http://www.agmdiscountfishing.co.uk/knot2kinky-nickeltitanium-wire-25lb-113kg-p-811.html HOWEVER i've found through my own experiments the 25lb BS at 0.25mm breaks at around 15-20lb static test and always at a knot (or crimp). This stretchy stuff also looses it's integrity once stretched so should you need to pull a lure free from a snag the chances are the leader's then weaker. Again just my findings.

With any of the knotty wire's it's best not to pull the knot down too tight and leave it slightly loose with a longer tag end. It'll tighten down under load but if you start off with a tight knot it always breaks there 1st.
 

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I always use a wire trace when freshwater spinning. Incidentally many clubs have rules requiring you to do so. I make my own traces using Drennan 7 strand pike wire, rated 15lb. I generally concentrate on perch fishing using Mepps Aglia size 2 (4.5gms) and size 3 (6.5 gms). I have never had any trouble not catching perch, or even chub, using a wire trace. I have had a lot of good perch, mostly caught in very clear ex-gravel pits, all between 11.00am - 3.00pm, which is not supposed to be the best time for catching perch, although nobody has told my perch this.

Personally I think if your presentation is right and you don't go making a lot of noise if you are wading,then if a fish sees your lure, it will have it.

David
 

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I always use a wire trace when freshwater spinning. Incidentally many clubs have rules requiring you to do so. I make my own traces using Drennan 7 strand pike wire, rated 15lb. I generally concentrate on perch fishing using Mepps Aglia size 2 (4.5gms) and size 3 (6.5 gms). I have never had any trouble not catching perch, or even chub, using a wire trace. I have had a lot of good perch, mostly caught in very clear ex-gravel pits, all between 11.00am - 3.00pm, which is not supposed to be the best time for catching perch, although nobody has told my perch this.

Personally I think if your presentation is right and you don't go making a lot of noise if you are wading,then if a fish sees your lure, it will have it.

David
I totall agree with that sentiment :clap::clap:

I've caught dozens and dozens of perch between two and four pounds, and hundreds of smaller ones using Drennan Soft Strand wire in 10 to 20Ib breaking. There are certain occasions and venues where fluorocarbon might give you a small advantage but if there is pike present you WILL have a bite off.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok this is what I'm thinking. As Andy has said it snaps at the knots. Joining it to the braid with a albright knot so the leader is only bent and not knoted. and to the clip a none strangulation knot like a uni-knot. Or maybe whip it with fuse wire or tying silk, ie fold the wire trace and whip it then bend the tag and whip back up so no slippage. How does that sound?
 

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I think we all agree for the need to use a wire trace to prevent a bite off and lures of 4.5 or 6.5gr will work fine with a fine wire trace. I think the major concern for me is when you do go ultralight (and that was Dave M's original question) down to 1gr or so, trying to match a very fine wire to compliment such a light lure just doesn't work. I wouldn't dream of chucking a decent size mepps anywhere near a toothy critter without a wire trace but going down to ultralight, i think it needs more thought than a simple bolt & braces approach.
 

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Or maybe whip it with fuse wire or tying silk, ie fold the wire trace and whip it then bend the tag and whip back up so no slippage. How does that sound?
I've seen that before, I think it was Jon Bunyard who had some ready made traces that were whipped. There must be a way of joining them up without bulky crimps or big knots.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A rethink at the of the connection to the clip. Don't know why I did not think of it before. A nail knot. Nice and neat the tag will run though all the turns and with it not being a strangulation knot it should not break at the knot.
 

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Was out chasing pike on fly on the Thames at the weekend. Started off with 30lb Tyger Wire. No love. Changed to a thinner and different colour Drennan Soft Strand in 26lb, no love, not taps, no follows, nothing. On to a 60lb YGK Absorber Fllouro shock leader, follow, follow, hit, hit. 5lb zander and a 12lb pike.

Weekend before I was nailing plenty of pike on the Soft Strand. It seems to me that you need to have all these in your bag and be ready to change.

I know this thread is about UL but just thought I'd drop this in.

Would only use Flouro or hard mono (Rio) as a shock leader though. Normal mono like sufix would give you an unnacceptable rate of bite offs. That YGK is hard stuff.
 

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Hi

just been down the Hampshire Avon and had a nice chub on a rapala J-5 . I was using an AGM light wire trace and this didn't seem to put the chub off. Very shallow clear water and took the plug off the nose of a small perch that was having a good old look at it. Have useed the AGM traces with spoons down to 1/12 oz ok.

cheers

tony
 
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